Alkefjellet Waterfall, SvalbardAlkefjellet is a place that rewards patience and a strong stomach. The cliffs here rise vertically from the Arctic water, layer upon layer of ancient sedimentary rock folded and compressed over millions of years. Thousands of Brnnich's guillemots nest on every available ledge, and the noise and smell are extraordinary. What drew me to this particular section was the waterfall cutting down through a channel thick with moss and lichen. That green