Ventry Harbour, Dingle, Co. KerryI'd climbed up above Ventry expecting nothing but grey. The cloud had been sitting low over the peninsula all afternoon, flat and featureless. Then a gap opened to the west and this shaft of warm, golden light came through and swept across the harbour. It changed everything in about thirty seconds. From up there you can see how the fields run down towards the water in these long, narrow strips, each one a slightly different shade of green, divided by