Drifting Giants, Scoresby Sound, GreenlandWe cut the engine and drifted. Late evening in Scoresby Sound, the largest fjord system on Earth, and the silence was so complete I could hear water lapping against ice half a kilometre away. The air had that particular Arctic cold that finds every gap in your clothing. The light had dropped to a soft peach band along the horizon, and the sea had gone black and glassy. Icebergs everywhere. Dozens of them, scattered across the sound at different