Aranmore, Co. DonegalWe came around the western side of Aranmore and I wasn't ready for it. The helicopter banked and the whole headland opened up below us, this long spur of shattered rock pushing out into open Atlantic. I shouted something to the pilot. Probably not very articulate. The lighthouse sits right at the edge, a few white buildings clustered on the clifftop. From the air they looked almost irrelevant. The rock beneath them is so broken up, so layered and