Achill Head, Co. MayoI made this from the Irish Lights helicopter, somewhere off the north Mayo coast, and the moment Achill Head came into view I forgot I'd ever been there on foot. From a thousand feet up, every familiarity with the place just evaporated. That long finger of rock reaching into the Atlantic, tapering to a pyramidal peak, the ocean pulling white around its base on every side. What struck me was how committed this ridge is to the sea. The bulk of the